The Gods Must Be Drinkers

A question that I am forced to ask myself from time to time – “Are some people just crazy and don’t know it?” Time and time again I am reminded that, yes, some people wake up and proceed to live in an alternate reality.

That glaring, Las Vegas-bright reminder came to me the other day when someone I “know” who actually sells wine for a living told me the following:

“I don’t think the wine industry is very lucrative anymore in California. It has become overinflated, too global, and the current economy and supply dictates lower price points for wines. I don’t think people are willing to pay these prices anymore in California. All the money in sales is in import/export”.

I tried to not respond to this lunacy as a buyer and seller of mostly California wine. I tried to put myself in this person’s floppy red clown shoes and see if perhaps they were right. Is the California wine market saturated with over-priced schlock that no one really wants?  Are millions of wine drinkers across this great country planning a revolt to drink only foreign value wines? Have I been completely incorrect in my career choice?

As a former importer/exporter of Italian wines, most of which at a great value, I know that there is money to be made in the importing game; however, as a champion of the wines of the Central Coast, I became really worried that perhaps this person’s opinion on the future of domestic worthless hooch was a genius premonition of things to come.  Then I took a deep breath, chuckled a bit and realized that if anywhere in the world, the Central Coast is producing some fantastic values.  Now there aren’t a lot of $8 wines coming from this region, but then again the level of quality, care and precision that come from these wines are at a completely different level than a random Argentine Pinot Noir made in a guy’s garage. You get what you pay for, so I wanted to find at least 3 wines that I think (and many others) are outstanding values for what you get – all under $20 a bottle.

 

Fontes & Phillips 2008 Pinot Gris, Sierra Madre Vineyard – $18, $15, $160

You don’t have to be a genius or a sophisticated billionaire wine collector to know that Sierra Madre Vineyard in Santa Maria is one of the top vineyards on the Central Coast for bright, flavorful and terroir-driven grapes. An old Mondavi property planted by Ken Brown, new owner Doug Circle has created a vineyard that is sought after by some fantastic producers including Flying Goat, La Fenetre, Au Bon Climat, Paul Lato and many more. Long story short, they produce some amazing grapes.

So when Alan Phillips decided to make a Pinot Gris, what a better place to source from than this gem of a vineyard. Alan Phillips, along with wife Rochelle, make high quality wines for price points that do not break the bank. Specifically this Northern Italian-inspired white, Fontes & Phillips Pinot Gris is not like the insipid Pinot Grigios that you find in the aisles of Vons – but a complex, yet delicate combination of fantastic fruit and incredible acidity. If ever a wine existed for summer sipping – this is it.  Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio are the same, just different in name and in style. Alan Phillips has created a style of this varietal that maintains that pop, that freshness of Trento in the Dolomites of Italy.

An amazing array of citrus fruits jump out of the glass when you first smell it – meyer lemon, key lime and a touch of white peach.  Then you find a hint of wet stones, which tells you that there is going to be great minerality to this wine, a crisp, zippiness. The palate does not disappoint, as you get all that fruit and minerality that brings you to a feeling that your mouth will not stop watering.  It craves Dos Carlitos Ceviche or Morro Bay Oysters.  Bring a napkin, because the salivating will not stop!

Now imagine all of those flavors, all of that magic going on – for only $15 a bottle.  Or for even less by the case. Only 275 cases produced!

Buy this now

 

Babcock 2009 Pinot Noir, ‘Rita’s Earth’, Sta. Rita Hills – $20, $15, $150

Pinot Noir is possibly one of the most expensive varietals to grow correctly. By correctly, I mean with a delicate nature; nuance; respect. For those that are wearing a strait jacket, Pinot Noir is a wine that goes beyond that of understanding and appreciation. The Pinot Noir wave has been beat to death by wineries that have no business producing the grape just to make a quick buck. My insane “colleague” previously mentioned may look to a grape like Pinot Noir to show the glut of California wines.  It is an easy argument if you aren’t paying true attention.

Enter Bryan Babcock.  Bryan is a vineyard wizard. If you go to the Babcock Winery in Sta. Rita Hills, you will not hear him talk about food pairings or wine, you will hear about soil types, grape clusters and vine training.  Bryan is a genius when it comes to the better production of grapes.

When you look through the catalog of Babcock wines, you will see several small production Pinot Noirs that are about the highlighting of different vineyards, soil types and expressions.  These Pinots are in small production, some only 85 cases. They are not cheap.  Then you come across a wine called “Rita’s Earth”, an homage to the soil of Sta. Rita Hills.  You taste this wine and automatically you are transplanted to these hills on the way to the coast.

Then….you see the price.  At under $20, this is perhaps the best value in Pinot Noir that exists in the world. Pinot Noir should be a feminine grape, a feminine expression of true terroir. Sometimes what you get in Pinot Noir is a seemingly attractive feminine with mangled, masculine hands that could crush a lobster (those hands are the sun-burned Syrah thrown in to bulk up a vapid, under-ripe Pinot Noir). Those Pinots are a Seinfeld nightmare.

Babcock Rita’s Earth is the true epitome of what a feminine, elegant, sexy, supple, luxurious Pinot Noir. The adjectives go on and on to describe what everyone truly wants, not Mary Ann, but Ginger!

On the nose, tons of holiday spices that lends to African Rooibos tea leaves.  When you drink this “Liquid Love Letter” (thanks to Matthew Kaner) you will think that you just did something a bit naughty.  The wine equivalent of Hot for Teacher. Anymore, you will just have to try it for yourself.  But I kid you not – if you don’t buy this by the case to share with friends, relatives, co-workers, neighbors, enemies, friends of enemies and people you have never met before – you need to get your palate examined!

Buy Now!

 

Axis Mundi 2010 Red Blend, Windmill Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley – $21, $18, $180

So it’s going to start getting warm out there folks. You are going to need a wine to chill down, to drink when you wake up, with burgers, and something to throw in the ice chest when you are playing a raging game of disc golf.  But you’re not a fan of white wine?

Allow me to introduce you a creation by Wes Hagen and the fine folks at Clos Pepe Vineyard.  Axis Mundi means the center of the world in most English translations, which is a perfect description for this wine, because once you take a sip – nothing else matters. It is also perfect for those people that are delusionally self-involved – much like Carly Simon, they probably think this wine is about them.

Axis Mundi is Santa Ynez Sangria – lots of bright, lush crushed berries and a hint of clove spice.  Imagine if you were to take a bit of mulled wine, blend it with a great pinot noir – that is Axis Mundi.   It is 2/3 Grenache, 1/3 Syrah, 3/3 delicious!!!

What is fascinatingly delicious about this wine, is that it actually becomes better with a bit of chill on it. Try it – seriously. A vibrancy and freshness comes out of the wine with just a bit of cool breeze all over the wine.

It is a red wine for any summer occasion –which is why it’s price point is so attractive.  At only 375 case production, you better act fast, because at $180 a case, I will be sending out Christmas presents in July to all of my friends.

So….these are just 3 bottles of evidence of how Santa Barbara County answers to the detractors and individuals that poo poo the value of California wines. These 3 deliciously apt examples of great house wines are just the tip of the proverbial Titanic amount of wines from this area that are not only great for your wallet, but for your palate too.

It is a shame that these wines don’t make it across the country, but at such small production levels, it is probably a good thing that we can take advantage of these best buys right in our backyard.

When you hear someone talking trash about California wines, just pour them a glass of one of these 3 wines, tell them to put it next to their cold, cold heart and cheers to some amazing wine!

Buy Now!

Apple Creek Ranch

Photography by Stacey Millet Photography

Nestled in in the heart of Santa Barbara’s wine country, Apple Creek Ranch is a sprawling hacienda style home that sits on a beautiful 45 acre lot. With panoramic views of the Santa Rita hills, this private tranquil estate,  features a spacious Master bedroom suite, two additional bedrooms, a family room, a media room and large chef’s kitchen. Surrounded by patios and courtyards, Apple Creek Ranch is perfect venue for an outdoor wedding. Whether you are wanting an intimate garden wedding, or a larger ranch style wedding, Apple Creek Ranch, with it beautiful views, is a perfect backdrop!  The site fee is $7500 on weekends and $3500 on weekdays, and includes full access to the property including the house, guest house and barn from 9am the morning of the wedding until 12 noon the following day, and sleeps a total of 12 people.

 Apple Creek Ranch- A Wedding Venue

Apple Creek Ranch also offers a special Wedding Week Package Plan for couples plus family and friends who want to stay at Apple Creek Ranch for an entire week (6 nights-7 days). The plan includes the site fee for the wedding and reception as well as the rental of both houses (12 person max). Smaller events held during the week such as rehearsal dinners and brunches are also included. The fee for the Wedding Week Package Plan is $11,000 which is a $13,300 value!

Apple Creek Ranch-An Ideal Vacation Getaway

The Great Room

The Media Room

The Family Room

The Dining Room

The Master Bedroom

The View From The Back Deck

Apple Creek is also a great option for those who are looking for an intimate vacation rental. Conveniently located off the 101 Freeway and Highway 246- just minutes away from Solvang and a forty-five minute drive from Santa Barbara, it’s a great spot to unwind and enjoy the breathtaking views, after a long day of wine tasting! Summer rates (from 3/11-11/1), for the main estate are $575 a night, $3300 for one week.

For those who are looking for something smaller, there is a charming two-bedroom plus den guest house that was the original homestead. It has been completely refurbished to offer you all the comforts of home-complete with a wood-burning fireplace and front porch overlooking a small vineyard. Summer rates (from 3/11-11/1 and include all major holidays) are: $350 per night, $1200 weekly.

Charming Guest Cottage

Whether you come for a relaxing weekend away or for a wedding, business meeting, family reunion, anniversary or birthday party, Apple Creek Ranch offers you and your guests all the comfort and amenities of a home-away-from-home. Kids can run around and play on our spacious grounds, pets have their own enclosed, outdoor area, and adults can unwind sitting on the deck taking in the breathtaking views.

APPLE CREEK RANCH · 7250 Domingos Road · Santa Rita Hills, CA 93436
Phone: (805) 448-0099     toll free: 1-888-381-4449
email: stayapplecreekranch@aol.com     eventsapplecreekranch@aol.com

Fontes & Phillips Wines

Fontes & Phillips wines is a boutique, family owned wine project, that makes excellent pinot noir, pinot gris & roses. Owner and renowned winemaker, Alan Phillips works together with wife, Rochelle Fontes-Phillips, to create a portfolio of small-lot wines from world-class Santa Barbara County vineyards.

Rochelle and Alan (Fontes & Phillips) have been involved in the wine industry for a combined 35 years. In his early years in Napa, Alan worked with winemaking legends like André Tchelistcheff (at S. Anderson), and following a couple years of experience helped the Corley family establish Monticello Cellars. Winemaker for Monticello for ten years Alan eventually left to do world-wide winemaking consulting.

In the mid-1990s Alan moved to the Santa Cruz Mountains where he met Rochelle Fontes. In the wine industry herself, Rochelle has developed a career in winery compliance and accounting.

In 1998, they moved to Santa Barbara when Alan was hired manage and develop Foley Estates and LinCourt Vineyards. In 2008, Fontes & Phillips, the family project was created. Each wine is handcrafted and sourced from single vineyards of high acclaim. Even the bottling and packaging is lovingly done by hand.  Each bottle is personally labeled by Alan and Rochelle with handmade pewter labels from South America.

Come check out the Fontes & Phillips Tasting Room at:
2362 Alamo Pintado Avenue
Los Olivos, CA 93441

Open 11-5 Thursday, Friday, Saturday & Monday
Open 12-5 on Sunday
Tues & Wed by apt only.

Phone: (805) 688-2200

 

Serenity Limousine

Serenity Limousine provides luxury transportation from Los Angeles to Paso Robles. With it’s headquarters in Santa Barbara,  Serenity Limo’s specialize in personalized professional service,  from corporate transportation, airport transfers, wine tours, weddings, to small and large group events. Their primary vehicles include:

Black Lincoln town car

 

 

 

 

Black GMC Yukon SUV

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Black Lincoln Limousine

 

 

 

 

Black limo van, which fits up to 14 people

with captain chairs and a 17 inch flat screen.

 

 

 

Serenity is going green!

Last year Serenity decided to make a commitment to a greener lifestyle, and are now following a strategic Emissions Reduction Plan to pollution reduction expelled by their fleet and facilities.

The plan includes:

The adoption of fuel efficiency technologies where able. They have formed new employee incentives to reduce company waste, in the office and on the road. Chauffeur and office staff re-education and trained to conserve fuel, waste management and inner office recycling programs with local partners.They have entered in to local and national programs to help offset or cabin foot print left behind by our company’s usage of Petroleum products.

To book your car service today call Serenity at 1-800-939-5466!

Coastal Concierge

Coastal Concierge is an experienced provider of luxury outings and tours in the Santa Barbara and Santa Ynez area. Whether you are looking to have a romantic outing, or a corporate retreat, Coastal Concierge has the ability to accommodate groups from 2 to 40 people, and because of the close relationships they have with local wineries, resorts and restaurants, they are given unprecedented access to estates, tasting rooms and vineyards! They have access to the behind-the-scenes running of a winery, and can create customized vineyard tours, blending seminars, and barrel tastings! Coastal concierge always uses luxury transportation, always allows you to move at your own pace, offers gourmet food & has fun and educated guides, that all help create memorable tours & outings in the Santa Ynez & Santa Barbara area.

Some of their tour packages, which are all highly customizable include:

Classic Wine Country Tour

Moving at your own pace, the five hour wine tour will generally last until late afternoon and will include three to five wineries.

Santa Barbara City Tours

Santa Barbara city tours are customized to allow you to take in the beautiful city of Santa Barbara in whichever way you please.

Aerial & Wine Tour

See the wine country like never before. And you can fly the plane!

To book call: 805.265.6065 or Email Matt Cooper
 

The Unsung Heroes of Harvest

Originally Written for Edible Santa Barbara, by Laura Sanchez
Photography by Fran Collin 

You’ll never see their names on a bottle of wine or find them pouring samples at a swanky event. But theirs are the hands that tend the vines, pick the fruit, drive the forklifts and guide the juice down its alchemistic path. They are the unsung heroes of harvest and the heart and soul of Santa Barbara County’s wine industry.Wine is of enormous importance to our community. The wine industry’s local economic impact in 2010 is estimated at nearly a billion dollars. And according to the Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association, viticulture and wine production directly employ 5,000 local residents in addition to many more as seasonal help and contract laborers. By sharing the stories of three individuals, representative of the thousands who emerge each evening from the vineyards and cellars, our hope is to recognize the efforts of many—and offer them our heartfelt gratitude.

Ruben Solorzano

Ruben_FranCollin

At 3am on a misty autumn night the deep diesel rumble of a tractor echoes in the darkness at Stolpman Vineyards and a multitude of tiny blue lights emerges over the hill. The twinkling cluster approaches, accompanied by the clipping sounds of harvest, and slowly the silhouettes of vineyard workers picking grape clusters by headlamp come into focus.

Among these harvesters walks Ruben Solorzano, the barrel-chested vineyard manager for Coastal Vineyard Care and Stolpman Vineyards. His smile is warm and his translucent green eyes are alive with ideas—even at this early hour.

If you ask people in the wine industry who their harvest hero is, 90% will name Ruben Solorzano. From late August to mid-October, the 41-year-old literally works around the clock. As the agricultural manager for several vineyards, he coordinates harvest crews, picking times and fruit transport for all of the different vineyards he oversees. And here is where the heroics happen: Many of the vineyards he cares for harvest during the daytime hours, while others, like Stolpman, pick during the cool of the nighttime. For Ruben, that means very little sleep for the eight weeks of harvest.

As the blackness gives way to crepuscular blue, we load into his pickup to get workers started picking a neighboring vineyard. During the drive Ruben tells me that he came to Santa Barbara County from Jalisco, Mexico, in 1989 not knowing a word of English. He was familiar with agricultural work—in Mexico he had raised tomatoes, corn, peppers, cows, chickens and turkeys—so he began working with his brother Marcos as a vineyard worker. During these years he put in long hours trying to learn all that he could about grapevines and their care. He asked questions, observed and eventually began suggesting ways to improve farming practices. In 1994, Jeff Newton of Coastal Vineyard Care recognized his passion and offered him a vineyard position. Twelve years later, he was offered partial ownership in the company—a role that he considers a great honor and responsibility.

Today he and his wife, Lupe, and their children Marissa and Omar live in a beautiful home on Stolpman Vineyard.

He’s humble about his accomplishments. Ruben firmly believes that his experience as part of the vineyard crew offered him an intimate connection with the vines as well as sensitivity to the crew’s perspective. “I’ve been in their shoes,” he says. As a result, he has their respect. When crewmembers ask him for advice on how to achieve success, he shares his personal credo: “Work hard and believe in what you do.”

Ruben is an innovator. “If I never make a mistake, I’m not learning anything,” he wisely states, pointing out a section of the vineyard in which vines grow upright on tipi-shaped trellises rather than the standard long rows. Ruben learns and develops practices through experimentation—observing vines closely and adapting farming practices to address specific needs. Ruben began several vineyard trials after the Stolpmans sent him to Europe’s wine regions with winemaker Sashi Moorman. The most successful was the upright, Côte Rôtie-style trellising method he tried with Syrah clone 470. The head training and angled shoots offered even sun exposure and efficiency from a labor perspective. Now an entire acre (5,808 vines) is designated “Ruben’s Block” and the fruit is of such extraordinary quality that Stolpman bottles a special Ruben’s Block Syrah. “The wine is delicious,” Ruben says with a modest smile.

Blanca Rueda

Blanca

If you listen and follow the low murmur of voices and rustle of leaves, you can always find Blanca Rueda somewhere amid the vines at Dierberg and Star Lane Vineyards. The 34-year-old mayordoma, or crew manager, oversees a 12-person vineyard team and affectionately tends the property’s vines. As we walk row-by-row, she continues thinning fruit—plucking off green clusters of Cabernet grapes—and shares her story in lyrical Spanish.

At 18, soon after she emigrated to Paso Robles from Oaxaca, Mexico, Blanca began working with her brothers in the strawberry fields of the Santa Maria Valley. After four years of back pain and frequent chemical irritations, she decided to take a vineyard position in Santa Maria. She hired on at Dierberg and Star Lane Vineyards, where today she appreciates the sense of community as well as the benefits of environmentally sensitive farming. “I enjoy being a part of the entire process—working with the vines, tending fruit and harvesting. And someday,” she explains, “perhaps I’ll work in the winery too.”

Blanca explains that for her, tending plants comes as naturally as caring for her children. And the way she touches the leaves of a Petit Verdot vine reveals the maternal love and pride she feels for every tendril. In fact, Blanca is representative of many women in the wine industry who gracefully balance careers caring for both vines and family. She and her husband, Nahu Herrera, have two children, Josue, 13 and Jercahin, 9. On the weekends she loves to make pancakes for her children, take them shopping and spend time as a family at church.

Blanca has never tasted wine. But her kind brown eyes—the only part of her not covered by layers of protective clothing—light up when she samples a few Cabernet Sauvignon grapes for ripeness. Though she doesn’t consume alcohol, she likes to use excess fruit—especially Sauvignon Blanc grapes—in fruit salads. Her children’s favorites are the homemade sweet corn tamales and arroz hervido she makes with the raisins.

When I ask Blanca what one thing she couldn’t live without during the grueling days of harvest, I expect the obvious: a hot bath or a hearty breakfast. Instead, her response is the tractoristas or tractor operators. Since the operators move between groups, she explains that she can leave word with a tractorista to prompt crewmembers to pick a different section of the vineyard—perhaps one that has ripened earlier. “They facilitate communication and make it easier to manage the crew efficiently,” she says with a smile. In helping her find balance in supporting the people she works with and ensuring the highest fruit quality, they have created a sense of community. And for that, Blanca Rueda is incredibly grateful.

Junio Vargas Ojeda

Junio_FranCollin

“Hard work is just part of the game,” Junio Vargas explains with a wink as he tops off barrels of Chardonnay. The mere mention of harvest time makes the 31-year-old cellar master’s muscles twitch. Junio oversees wine production at Terravant Wine Co., where he coordinates the transformative process—from crush to bottle—for more than 20 different wineries. He is also assistant winemaker at Summerland Winery. Besides cleaning a lot of sticky equipment, according to him his job requires strategy and tremendous teamwork—two things that come naturally to the avid soccer player.

Junio was raised in Nipomo and attended Santa Maria High School. His father, Fidencio Vargas, has worked for Tolosa Vineyards in the Edna Valley for over 25 years. In 1999 Junio decided to try vineyard work to see if he was cut out for the wine industry and took a job at Edna Valley Vineyards. He earned his degree and viticulture and enology certificate at Alan Hancock College and began his career as a cellar worker at Central Coast Wine Services in Santa Maria. His wife, Luciana, is an enologist at Central Coast Wine Services. In 2004 he connected with Etienne Terlinden, winemaker at Summerland Winery and also began working part time with him. “Etienne’s passion is catching,” he says. “That’s what made me fall in love with wine.”

In 2009, Junio moved to Terravant Wine Co. in Buellton, where he is equipment operation specialist/team leader and is in charge of running all the high-tech Memstar units and filters. That same year Etienne Terlinden was called to serve with the US Navy. Junio stepped in to help. “Junio was able to run the winery in my absence and make a great 2009 vintage,” Terlinden says. “I’m thankful for his support.” And it’s precisely this sense of teamwork that Junio thrives on during harvest. He compares coordinating the wine’s elevage (the art of maturing the wine) to passing the ball up the field. “Everybody gets very united,” he explains. “It’s an intense time of year. We have to communicate and work really hard together toward a common goal.”

During harvest he strategizes over a 6am cup of black coffee, looking over work orders to see what fruit is coming in and setting up the necessary equipment—crusher, pumps, augurs, hoses—in preparation. Once the fruit is sorted and de-stemmed, he makes sure it’s settled in open-top fermenters and kept cool. He begins writing work orders for yeast inoculations, punch downs and racking. It’s an action-packed eight weeks.

But harvest is a challenge that Junio looks forward to each year almost as much as his weekend YMCA league competitions. He first began playing soccer as an offensive player but often found himself sitting on the sidelines because of the popularity of that position. “Everyone wants to score a goal,” he says. So he told his coach, “Put me in anywhere! I just want to play!” And it is this same ebullient positive energy and cooperative spirit that Junio brings to wine production. For, he is that MVP athlete that draws little attention to himself but always raises the quality of play and makes his fellow players look good—and in doing so, Junio Vargas ensures that everybody wins.


Laura Sanchez is a Santa Barbara–based wine writer whose work appearsin an array of print and online publications.

 

 

25 Words or Less

By Jon McDaniel

At most retailers and purveyors of wine in America, you will see a hanging tag right below a bottle of wine. Most likely, this tag will have a number between 87-100, the wine name and a 25 word description about the wine. Some marketing genius was able to encapsulate every aspect of a particular wine – soil, vintage, fermentation, winemaker, wine – all in 25 words or less.

Ladies and gentlemen – this is a tasting note.  Tasting notes really began as a way to easily describe a wine to consumers that were not able to taste the wine before buying them. A way to use buzz words, colors, smells and tastes to try and entice a buyer into a particular bottle. With the growth of online media and wine in general, tasting notes have taken all forms, shapes and sizes.

Personally, I believe that there is one thing to blame for this blatant summarization of all things wine, yes that’s right – Twitter. The Twitterization of America has caused us as a society to need short explanations of everything, even something as personal and satiating as wine. To put into 150 characters or less everything about a bottle of wine, misses out on all of the glory that is fermented grape juice. Tasting notes are the reason why I get asked the question “Are there REALLY raspberries in this wine?” and why if you taste a wine, then are told that it tastes like raspberries, you will try your hardest to convince your brain that it tastes like raspberries, just so you can be as smart as the “experts”.

When you pick up a Wine Spectator or Wine Enthusiast (aka Highlights for Wine), like 91% of the other readers of the magazine, you most likely turn to the back of the publication to read the new scores of wines reviewed. Now we have already gone over the worthlessness of the points system (if not, check out my blog on “Points Suck”http://www.blog.santaynezwineclub.com/?p=1118).  Much like the points system, tasting notes are 100% about the experience of the author of the note. There is typically a formula that goes into writing a tasting note. Much like a really boring Mad Lib, this formulaic approach to wine usually consists of four things.

Color – If a positive review, it will compare it to some sort of jewel or precious metal (i.e. Golden, ruby or garnet). If negative, most likely a description of dirty bath water will come into play Smell – Positive reviews will talk about beautiful flowers and perfumes that will make you want to rub the scent all over your body. Negative will mention in the nicest way possible things like Band-Aids
and cow poop Taste – Name every fruit at El Rancho Market and this will encompass the descriptors for positive tastes of wine. Bigger reds will even throw out things like smoke, cigar box and earthy flavors. Negative reviews – you guessed it “Cow Poop” Pairings – This is really the best part. It will find some obscure pairing which you will never eat or make, unless it is a quaffable table wine, which will pair with anything.

One way or another, all wine tasting notes will most likely have these four characteristics. What sets apart so many wine writers, whether amateur or paid is that they will try and add their own twist to these tasting notes. Some writers like to use really big words to seem impressive and smart. Some like to write poetry to express all of the deep emotions they have about a wine. Some like to be sarcastic and funny and compare wine to illicit encounters with celebrities that they will never meet (Scarlett, I’m still waiting for you!). And some just go through the motions and throw out a bunch of random tastes like they threw darts at a dictionary and –tada! – Tasting note! To illustrate this phenomenon, look at Wine Spectator’s #1 Wine of 2010. The 2007 James Berry Vineyard Red Blend from Saxum.

From the winemaker What can I say? I really like this wine.  It has it all without any one component overwhelming the others.  It has great purity of fruit, layers of tannin, and a bright fresh acidity that holds it together. Because of its great balance, I think this wine is going to greatly improve over the next few years and drink well for many years to come.

From Robert Parker, Wine Advocate
Rating: 100
Drink 2009-2024
Utter perfection, and one of the most profound Rhone Ranger wines I have ever tasted is the 2007 James Berry Vineyard Proprietary Red, a blend of 41% Grenache, 31% Mourvèdre, and 28% Syrah (15.8% alcohol). It would be an amazing wine to insert in a tasting of the most profound 2007 Chateauneuf-du- Papes. As with many prodigious wines, the extraordinary freshness, purity, equilibrium, and singularity of this effort is breathtaking. Its dense purple color is accompanied by an extraordinary, incredibly pure, all enveloping, intense, sweet nose of black raspberries, kirsch, spring flowers, spice box, and pepper. Full-bodied with not a hard edge to be found, it is stunningly concentrated with unreal purity, a voluptuous texture, and remarkable freshness for a wine of such power, depth, and concentration. This 2007 will be approachable young, although I would not be surprised to see it close down given the relatively elevated proportion of Mourvedre, and it should drink well for 12-15 years.

From James Laube, Wine Spectator
Rating: 98
Drink: now through 2018
An amazing wine, dense, rich and layered, offering a mix of power and finesse, with concentrated dark berry fruit, mineral, sage, herb and cedar notes that are pure, intense, and persistent and focused.

From Josh Raynolds, International Wine Cellar
Rating: 97
Inky purple color. Spectacular nose combines black and blue fruit preserves, cola, smoky Indian spices and potpourri, with a vibrant mineral underpinning. Juicy, vibrant and focused, offering sweet boysenberry and blueberry flavors and suave floral pastille and allspice qualities. Deeply concentrated but lithe, with superb finishing clarity and a spicy, endless finish. I also retasted the 2006 James Berry Vineyard and it is in a highly expressive, juicy phase right now, with strong, sweet red and dark berry flavors and excellent clarity. I suspect that my score of 94 last year was low by a point. And the 2008 version, tasted from barrel, looks at least as good as this 2007.

From Steve Heimoff, Wine Enthusiast
Rating: 80
I really liked this wine, but then I found out that winemaker Justin Smith once shook hands with Senator John McCain. Now it just tastes like cow poop.

Okay, I made that last one up, but you see how different wine professionals all drank the exact same juice, and came up with completely different answers to what the wine is supposed to taste like. So what does that mean? That means that much like everything in this world, tasting notes are completely subjective. They are meant to paint a picture of what a wine might taste like to you if you knew what sage and cola and smoky Indian spices tasted like.  If you have never had any of those things or taste experiences, how would you know if that wine is for you? And notice the one descriptor that none of these authors wrote – that it tastes like grapes.

Well, it comes back to my one lesson about wine that is more important than any. Wine is about YOU. Go out and taste and create your own catalog of senses. When you taste a fruit, try and compare it to a wine you have had. When you taste a wine, try and create an image in your head about past experiences with certain foods and try and match them up together.

I was once asked to write tasting notes for a new winery that was releasing wines back in 2006. They produced a Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, a Russian River Chardonnay and a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.  I went to the winery at about 3pm, after a delicious 3 hour lunch at one of my favorite restaurants in San Francisco. When I got to the winery, I smelled all 3 of the wines and wrote my thoughts about the smells. Then I tasted all 3 wines and wrote down my thoughts. I was quite perplexed, because there was a similar taste throughout all 3 wines. A taste of mint and herbs that I couldn’t shake out of my mind. I didn’t want to write the exact same thing for all 3 wines, so I changed the same flavor profile into the following:

Sauvignon Blanc – hints of freshly picked Vietnamese mint

Chardonnay – a slight, just faint kiss of dried Thai Basil

Cabernet Sauvignon – brushes of herbal scents and flavors from the Orient

These basically describe the exact same flavor in 3 different ways. As I wrapped up my notes and gave them to the winery owner, he was very excited about how detailed and “spot-on” my descriptions were. They ended up using those descriptions on their bottles, press, and website and beyond. As I walked out of the winery, I shook hands with the winemaker and thanked him for inviting me. The last thing he said to me was “Hey dude, you got something green in your teeth”.  It was a piece of mint from my lunch that had been there the ENTIRE TIME!

Tasting notes are again, about experiences. So what better ways to test your experiences then to have you the consumer write some tasting notes?

Through the month of March, Santa Ynez Wine Club has partnered with the Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café and Bernat Winery to host a Tasting Notes Competition! Come into the Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café and taste the new release of 2010 Bernat Grenache Blanc and 2008 Bernat ‘Equality’ Syrah. You will be given the chance to write your own tasting notes for each of the wines! The top 10 submissions for each wine will be posted and voted on.

The winner of each tasting note will win a $50 gift card to the Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café and 6 bottles of Bernat wine! In addition, your notes will be posted on the Bernat website and used as the official tasting notes for the wine. Try your hand at describing all that there is to know about a wine in 25 words or less, and if you win, your words will be tied to that wine forever!

Contact me at jon@buysantabarbarawine.com or come into the Los Olivos Café for more details.

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